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Because wood patio furniture is more susceptible to damage than other types, such as polywood and aluminum, it’s more likely to end the season with some scratches, chips, gouges, and even burn marks.  Fortunately, you will often be able to fix such afflictions, or, at least, hide them.

Before you attempt any repairs, however, clean the porch swing, patio table, Adirondack chair, or whatever the injured party happens to be.  Start by using a soft, dry brush, to remove dirt, dust, and debris; then smooth out scratches and chips with sandpaper.

Although it’s best to use a product that’s specified as a wood wash, you can clean most outdoor wood furniture with very mild soap diluted in lukewarm water.  Dip a sponge into the mixture, wring out the excess, and gently wipe the surface.  Then, rinse it, blot it with a towel, and allow it to dry thoroughly in the sun before you operate on it.

Superficial scratches are pretty easy to handle, as there are several products made to cover them.  Many solutions can also be found in things that you may already have in your home.  Of course, some of them may sound a bit nutty; for example, you can often rub out a scratch with a pecan (or another nut that has a high oil content), a dab of peanut butter, or olive or vegetable oil.

Another pantry item that can rescue dark wood outdoor furniture is coffee.  Mix one teaspoon of the instant variety with one tablespoon of vegetable oil or water, and work it in gently with a soft rag.  This method can be very successful; but don’t use it on shellac, or antique wood.

Other things that can work well, but which should be tested on inconspicuous spots, are iodine (on reddish finishes, such as mahogany), and liquid and paste shoe polishes.  You can also use felt-tipped markers and softened crayons, and, if necessary, mix their colors to match the wood on your outdoor settee, loveseat, accent table, or whatever you’re mending.

You may be able to fix gouges on outdoor wood furniture with a furniture filler stick, made of wax or putty, and some dark furniture wax, which you’ll find at a wood-finishing supply store.  After cleaning the area with mineral spirits, apply a filler stick that matches the lightest shade of the wood, and then smooth it with a small piece of wood.

Next, buff it gently with superfine steel wool, and then use the dark furniture wax to even out the color.  Because this is a soft filler, it works best on outdoor table legs, the backs of patio chairs, and other parts of outdoor furniture that are not as heavily put-upon as tabletops.

To apply a harder fill, you’ll need a shellac stick, matched to the finish, some superfine, wet/dry sandpaper, mineral oil, alcohol, and a grapefruit knife, or a curved burn-in knife from a supply store.  Apply the shellac by (repeatedly) heating the knife, then pressing it against the stick, to make it melt and drip slowly into the hole.  When it’s filled to just above the surface, smooth it with the knife, and let it cool.  Then, even out the spot carefully with sandpaper and some mineral oil, and use the alcohol to remove the excess shellac.

Because this technique requires a little more skill, you should practice on a piece of junk furniture or scrap wood before trying it.  After all, you don’t want anyone giving you a bunch of shellac for ruining a good porch chair.

Yours Outdoors,

Kathy

Naturally, wood outdoor furniture has different care requirements than those of polywood, vinyl, aluminum, or plastic.  There are many types of wood from which it may be constructed, and each has specific characteristics that give it a beauty all its own.  While these traits also affect a wood’s durability, there are other factors that will determine how long it will actually last.

One of the variables is the way that people decide to treat (or not treat) it from the start.  Of course, the best way to ensure that your outdoor wood furniture will hold onto its good looks and structural integrity is to know something about the individual kinds of wood.

Western Red Cedar, for example, is one of the most popular woods, as it is gorgeous, and exceptionally durable.  With its rich texture, inherent radiance, and deep, warm tones, which range from light amber to honey brown, it makes spectacular porch swings, outdoor dining sets, and garden benches.  Cedar has innate oils that repel insects, and make it highly resistant to decay, as well as dimensionally stable properties that help to keep it from warping.

If you wish to maintain its original hues, use a sealer on your cedar outdoor furniture when it’s new; otherwise, leave it unfinished, and it will eventually turn to a rustic gray.  If you want it somewhere in between, wait until it reaches the tone you desire, and then seal it.  You can also change the shade of the wood by staining it.

Treated Southern Yellow Pine also makes stunning, sturdy outdoor chairs, chaise lounges, and picnic tables, that will withstand years of heavy use and harsh weather.  Treated pine undergoes a process of kiln-drying, before and after a special pressure treatment, which helps to prevent decay, and minimize warping, checking, and twisting.

As with cedar, you can seal and/or stain treated pine outdoor furniture to retain its yellow hue, or allow it to weather to a yellow-tinted gray.  Applying a stain/sealer once a year will preserve the wood’s luster, and protect it from the elements; and it’s best to use one that offers UV protection, and is resistant to mildew.

Teak is one of the best of all hardwoods for making outdoor furniture.  It grows in rich soil that infuses the wood with a high concentration of mineral deposits, which make it heavy, dense, waxy, thermally stable, water-repellent, and resistant to decay, insects, and warping.  You can sustain its resplendence with a stain/sealer, or let it turn to a silvery-gray.

You’ll find quality stain/sealers at any hardware store, in many color options, including clear, honey, cedar, and redwood.  Darker stains are better for maintaining the natural look, as they provide more protection from UV rays and body oils.  Applying a couple of coats every few years may be sufficient; but a lot depends upon your region’s climate, and how much your wood outdoor furniture groups are exposed to the elements.  If you leave them out all year long, unprotected by outdoor furniture covers, you may have to treat them annually.

The good news is that virtually every kind of wood patio furniture, when properly treated and maintained, will stay attractive and solid for quite a long time.  Knock on wood.

Yours Outdoors,

Kathy

As we’ve established, there are several things that you can do to fix, or hide, scratches in your wood patio chairs, porch swings, gliders, and accent tables.  On the other hand, you may be better off replacing things that are beyond repair, or have bigger problems than just having a few marks on them.

This can be a good move, for many reasons.  For one thing, newer wood outdoor furniture, especially if it’s finished and/or treated, tends to be less susceptible to scratches than are older pieces.  It’s also more resistant to decay, mildew, and insects; and these days, it’s available in a much wider range of styles.

Of course, you can also opt for polywood, vinyl, aluminum, or synthetic wicker outdoor furniture.  Some of these materials are nearly indestructible, so you may never again have to worry about scratches, dents, chips, or warping.  Furthermore, you can often find them in just about any color imaginable.  However, even if you get something more contemporary, such as a polywood outdoor dining table, for your patio, you may still want a traditional cedar picnic table for your backyard.

This is often the case, because people simply love wood.  There’s no denying that it has (always had) an irresistible, and indescribable, charm.  Somehow, it seems to radiate warmth, beauty, and comfort – and, in many instances, luxury – and we’ll never stop loving it.  The good news is that, besides being able to repair it, there are lots of things that you can do to prevent, or, at least, mitigate, any damage that it may incur.

Naturally, staining and/or sealing unfinished wood outdoor furniture when it’s new, will give it a big head start.  The only problem is that, like everything else, finishes come in a bewildering number of choices, including lacquer, shellac, polyurethane, penetrating oil, and acrylic and alkyd varnishes.  You’ll also have to select from satin, semi-gloss, and glossy varieties, and decide whether or not you want a stain, a sealer, or a stain/sealer for your outdoor wood furniture.

Because picking the right one can be puzzling, it’s best to arm yourself with knowledge before you venture into the hardware store.  Just for starters, remember that, whatever type of finish that you buy, the only way to get the best results from it is to follow the instructions on the label, and heed warnings about safe usage, proper ventilation, and flammability.  You should also make sure that it is resistant to mold, mildew, insects, and UV rays.

Next week, I’ll attempt to make things a bit less confusing, by explaining the differences, characteristics, advantages, and drawbacks of these products, so that you’ll be able to find the perfect finish for your outdoor furniture.

Right now, however, I’m just looking for the perfect finish for this blog!

Yours Outdoors,

Kathy